overdrive relay

[bunghead]

Good evening everyone. I'm new here and have a dilema. A friend has enlisted my help with his '51 Manhattan. It needs a lot of TLC not the least of which is that it's missing the overdrive relay and the relay harness is a disaster. I can make up a new harness but the relay is another matter. Is there  a source for a Kaiser relay that uses the plug connector? Do I need to keep an eye on Ebay, Hemmings, etc. for a used one that is good or rebuildable? Anyone out there have one they would be willing to part with? I would imagine I could use a Studebaker relay and make the harness sans plug. New ones are available for about $100 but I'd like to keep it stock and correct if possible. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much in advance.
Bryan

[Fid]

Just so you know, there were no '51 Kaiser Manhattans. Kaiser did not adopt the 'Manhattan' moniker till 1952 when the Frazer was dropped.  If the car is a '51 Kaiser and needs the relay with plug connector on it, there are vendors in the club that sell them. Also there is member in the club who reproduces the wire harness.   You have to be very careful when doing the wiring in the OD circuit as some wires are 14 gauge, some 16 and some 12. It is very important that wires requiring 12 gauge wire are using 12 gauge wire.
All '51 - '55 Kaisers used the same relay and harness if that helps.
The Studebaker, Willys, Nash and Hudson (and probably some others) relays without the plug pins are the same electrically and will work fine. They just need to be connected properly with eye terminals as you point out.

[kaiserfrazerlibrary]

If the car is a 1951 FRAZER Manhattan, it may use the older type K-F overdrive relay that had screw terminals instead of the plug.  Check the 1949-50 parts book for info on this as it has illustrations.  The 1951 Frazer non-illustrated parts manual should list the same part number as the 1949-50 book.

If the car is a Kaiser Manhattan, we need door post serial number.  As it was correctly pointed out, there was no 1951 Kaiser Manhattan.

[joefrazer]

Hudson and Studebaker used very similar relays. Just look for a 6V unit with a 4 post connector. They are not uncommon...but are also not inexpensive.

[Corsairdeluxe]

This is the O.D. relay on my last Henry J.Not Kosher! This car was owned by Bob McBride when he made his first HJ wiring harness and this is it.He evidently did not want to spring for the proper parts and the harness was made just for this relay. looks prime and proper.

[bunghead]

Thanks to everyone for your responses. I assumed the car was a Manhattan due to the body style. I'm quite ignorant on matters Kaiser but I'm learning quite a bit. I'm really a Model T Ford guy. Kaisers are a bit on the modern side but they sure are neat cars and I'm enjoying working on this one! I appreciate the advice on wire gauge. I figured on duplicating the harness with the same gauge that it currently has. It definitely needs the four prong relay as it still has the original harness with the four prong plug. I did acquire a newly manufactured Studebaker relay (you're right joefrazer, not inexpensive) but would prefer to use a stock relay. Thanks for your offer, Corsairdeluxe, I'll respond to you by email.

Bryan

[mbflemingkf]

I have one for sale.  Think it may be NOS (not in box) but I have no way to test it to see if its working.   

Mike

[Fid]

Mike, a quick test is to take a 9 volt radio battery and touch it across the rear terminal and the terminal to the left of it (as you're looking at it from the front). It should click. If it does, it's likely good.


You can double click the attachment below, called MOV03182.MPG, and see a video of this.

PS - It doesn't matter which way  the battery terminals touch ( + or - ) just so they touch those two terminals.

[mbflemingkf]

Thanks Lowell!  Yes, I tested it and it clicks!!   

[Fid]

Cool! The full test is to connect a continuity tester across the other two terminals, then click it with the battery. When it clicks, the tester should show continuity or read a resistance very close to 0.  Since most people don't have a continuity tester, and in most cases the click is adequate I don't always elaborate on that. One thing you can do is ensure there is no corrosion in the fuse holder. If it looks corroded, remove the fuse and clean the socket/holder good. It's likely good with the click test though.

[boatingbill]

I also recommend prying the tabs loose on the can cover and then remove the can. This will
expose the contacts for cleaning with emery sandpaper and allow for good conduction.

[Fid]

Here's the circuit, complete with wire gauge sizes: