Electrical System

[porsche1914]

I had the same problem with my '51 Henry J.
I live in a small town in Indiana and my close friend has a starter/alternator shop, and has much experience working on 6 volt systems in a lot of old tractors. He rebuilt my starter and my generator and I had a problem with the light not going out accept during high revs. I have an autollite system, we put in a new regulator and took it to his shop. He ajusted the regulator and it was fine.
This was three years ago and it has been ever since.

[Fid]

I was thinking too that you may want to verify your car has the correct generator and regulator on it. I don't believe you mentioned the  year but if the J is a '51 or a '52 Vagabond, it will have Autolite equipment. If it's a '52-'54 Corsair or Corsair Deluxe, it will have Delco-Remy (there were a very few '52 Corsairs that had Autolite, the serial number range is listed in the factory parts book but it's a very low number).

The Autolite numbers are:
Generator - GDZ-6001E
Regulator - VRP-6001A

Delco-Remy numbers are:
Generator - 1102789
Regulator - 1118731

Check the numbers on them and see.

My '52 Vagabond had a similar problem when I first got it. I was going to install new brushes in the generator to see if that would help and when I removed the generator that's when I found that a previous owner had installed a Hudson generator on it. Electrically the specs were the same but the Hudson unit has a smaller diameter pulley on it so it spun too fast, hence boiling the battery and burning up regulators so be sure you have the correct numbers on yours.
It's easy to forget that some of these cars were restored in the 70s and 80s when we didn't have the internet or forums such as this to find parts and information so you had to make due with what you could find. The previous owner needed a 6 volt generator,  found a Hudson unit and installed  it. Probably worked fine for a while.

Otherwise, I agree with porsche1914, it probably needs an adjustment.

[msass]

It was hard to read, but I think it is Autolite GGW-6001-S1. My dad and I were wondering if maybe the pulley wasn't the correct size. Any idea where I can check if this generator is correct?

[Fid]

I got the information from 1955 Motor's Auto Repair Manual.  It lists the Autolite GGW-6001x generators as being used on Chrysler products and a few Packard cars.

The specs for the GGW-6001 are:
Amps = 45 @ 2125  RPM

The specs for the GZD-6001 (which the HJ used originally) are:
Amps = 35  @ 2250 RPM

so the GGW unit is putting out more amps per RPM which could very well by your issue.

That being said, you still may be able to get it in range by adjusting the regulator.
The regulator used with the GGW unit was a VRP-6004A which is 6.5 volts/45 amps
The regulator used with the GZD  unit was a VRP-6001A which is 6.5 volts/35 amps.

I think the modern replacement for Henry J Autolite is a NAPA ECH VR25
their modern replacement for the Chrysler is NAPA ECH VR27 so you may also want to try a this one in your car. The wiring should be able to handle it if the Amps go  up a bit.

[msass]

Thanks for the great information. So will my GGW generator work? I can't seem to find any numbers on the regulator at all. But if I get the correct regulator you think that will solve my problems?

[Fid]

I think if you have correct regulator, assuming you can physically mount it in the car, it should work. Edgar Kaiser's Henry J has a big Autolite generator on it from a '49 Chrysler - big generator. It has the correct Autolite reg with it and it works fine... even better actually as the AMP light never comes on in that car.  If you have the correct generator / regulator combination and the output does not exceed the ratings on any of the electrical equipment you should be OK if it's adjusted properly - see shop manual for that.  The GZD was likely used in the J to cut cost as many items were. The GWW puts out more amps so it would cost more originally. The concern would be can the original Henry J wiring handle it and based on the fact that Edgar's car handles a 45 amp generator I'd say it can.

[msass]

Thanks again. I'll have to see if I can figure out what kind of regulator I have. If I can't maybe I'll just buy a new one. The VR 27 is what I want then, correct?

[Fid]

Correct. The VR27 is used with that generator. Again, it may require adjustment.

[msass]

Thanks again. I figured out I have a GDR6003 regulator. I think it is intended for tractors. Should this work?

[Fid]

I can't find anything in the Motors Manual that references a GDR6003.  I searched for one on ebay and this came up -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENERATOR-REGULATOR-TWO-UNIT-A-CIRCUIT-POS-GROUND-/130597129107?hash=item1e68320b93&vxp=mtr

The add says the regulator is for a Delco Remy system so if this is the regulator you have -


then it is definitely not correct for the generator you have.
If the one you have is for a tractor etc. then it makes sense why it's not listed in the Motor's Manual as that is only for passenger cars.  All the vehicles listed for it in the ebay ad are tractors/trucks etc.
It's starting to look like a new regulator is what you need and the VR 27 is the one you want.

[msass]

That looks like what I have. I ordered a VR27. Hopefully that solves the problem. If it doesn't I really don't know anymore.

[Fid]

I can't tell what the order of the terminals is on the one you have but Delco and Autolite are different so here's a picture of what it should be -


The terminals are ARM   FLD   BAT

There are two wires together that go to ARM (Armature) and they are identified as going in the direction of the generator / starter where they enter the harness.
There is one, thin wire which goes to FLD (Field) terminal.
There are three that go to the BAT (Battery) terminal. Two are together and go in the direction of the firewall where it enters the harness and one brown one which goes in the direction of the generator / starter where it enters the harness. These three will be thick heavy wires as will the two the go to ARM.
There is a single ground wire which goes to the top mounting screw on the regulator - that one ties the generator to ground.   

[msass]

Thanks! I do have the wiring diagram, but it is nice to see it too. I also discovered last night that I can start it by simply pushing the button, I don't even need the key, so obviously something isn't wired correctly there either. Also the light just randomly went off for a couple miles while driving last night.

[Fid]

Does the car actually start or does the engine just turn over (starter runs) when pushing the button? Because pushing the button will run the starter whether the key is in the on position or not. That's the way they are. You do need to switch the key on in order for it to actually start and run though.

[msass]

You are correct. I messed that one up. Sorry. Still trying to learn all of this stuff.