My Latest Acquisition

[joefrazer]

So...the car is together...at least as together as it's going to be before I load it on Saturday. I still need to find some door panel clips and other odds and ends but right now I have a bigger problem. I cannot get the engine to start. It's getting fuel to the carb and the points spark when they should, but I'm not getting any spark to the plugs. I changed the cap, rotor, points and plugs and still, nothing. I even swapped out the coil but to no avail. Could I have two bad ones? I doubt it.

Tomorrow is another day!

[Fid]

I'm sure you'll figure it out Jim.  One thing that has bitten me more than once is the counter-clockwise rotating rotor. But if that were the case, you'd still have spark, just not when you need it!  Also, the '53/'54 J would have Delco-Remy equipment so if an Autolite rotor was used (which I don't think is physically possible) that may cause.  Based on what you're saying it should be fairly easy to isolate.  Keep us informed.

[boatingbill]

Turn the ignition on and lift up the distributor cap. Open and close the  points with something non metallic. If the points spark, then the
primary circuit of the coil is working. Crank the engine and see if the rotor is rotating, Then put the cap back on and pull the high
voltage lead out of the distributor cap. may sure you are not touching the car and then hold the lead 1/4" or less away from the block.
Have someone crank over the engine and you should see a BLUE spark to the block. If no spark then the secondary side of the coil
is not working. I would then install a KNOWN good coil and try again. If you now get a spark on the coil wire but not at the plugs. you
may have a cracked rotor that is grounding the high voltage. Follow the steps in order and let us know what happens. I have
chased myself in circles with bad coils and now if I get a bad one it goes into the trash immediately and not on the shelf or workbench.

[joefrazer]

Not one to give up easily, I tried swapping out what I thought was a good coil with another. Lo and behold, the J started right up. So, I took boatingbill's advice and pitched the two "good" coils.

Now to get the door gaskets, horns, horn ring, door panels and everything else on the car.

Thanks everyone for your help and advice on the car. I absolutely could NOT have done this without your assistance. This is what makes the KFOCI a great club.

I'll post pics of the "finished" product later today.

[Fid]

Great news Jim. It's looking great already but yes, let us know how it runs and drives!

[joefrazer]

A few pictures of the car as of today. It runs, drives and stops. It might not be pretty, but it's finally together after sitting in storage for the last 20 plus years.

[Fid]

Looking great Jim.

[mbflemingkf]

Nice work Jim.     Hope to see it in person later in the week!   

[joefrazer]

I recently bought a couple of replacement knobs from Rudy for my J. What's the trick to keeping them in place? I tried liquid nails but that lasted one good pull on the choke knob...

[Fid]

Hi Jim,  I installed new choke knobs and vent knobs in my '52 and '53 HJs about 10 years ago. I just used some strong epoxy - I don't remember which brand, but 10 years later, so far - so good.

[joefrazer]

A quick update. The engine in my HJ had not been run in a couple years and when I got it to start, it would not stay running without my constantly feathering the gas pedal. I assumed it needed the carb rebuilt since it sat with stale fuel in it for some time. I obtained and installed a new kit but noticed that one part in the carb was not present when I disassembled it. There's a check ball and weight in the kit and in my carb the weight was there but the ball was not. The parts list with the kit says the ball and weight aren't used in all models so I guess my question is, should the check ball be installed in my carb?

I reassembled the carb with the check ball and weight and it does run better but with the choke fully open it still wants to stall. I'm sure I still have some adjustments to complete.

[Fid]

Jim, every Henry J carb I ever took apart had the check ball in it - looks like a small BB (maybe get them from the Lone Ranger since it's silver).   Usually replacing the accelerator pump diaphragm fixes most carb problems, but yes, the HJ uses the round check valve.

[Corsairdeluxe]

You can not buy these anymore. I used to put them in every carb I had. Best level valve ever made!

[joefrazer]

From the "live and learn" section of the Book of Life...it is MUCH easier to install the overdrive kickdown switch and associated wiring with the engine OUT of the car. Of course, I just did it the hard way. I had to remove the floor mat and pedal cover plates and then jockey the kickdown switch down between the firewall, shift arms, and engine and then, reaching thru the opening where the plates were, I maneuvered the switch into the hole in the firewall - not easy with big hands and a small opening. ***Important note*** The kickdown switch used in the HJ is not the same as used in the early Kaisers...I found that out the hard way as well. The switch used in the HJ has a shorter body so it clears the shift arms.

So, the switch and wiring is in place. The solenoid, governor and rail switches are all wired...now all I have to do is find an OD cable assembly. One question...there is a retainer bracket bolted to the rear of the transmission that the cable casing lays in to hold in it place when the handle is moved in/out. In it's proper position under the car, should it be up against the OD solenoid body? It's the only thing under the car that could act as the upper stop for the casing.

[Fid]

Here's how it looks Jim. I took this pic just before I changed the OD wiring harness in my '53. I've done all three of mine now, all with the engine in the car and I don't recall it being all that difficult. Anyway, there is a bracket fastened to one bolt on the tranny and clamps the cable against the solenoid as shown.
I have the bracket if you need one.