Heater and vent controls stuck 1953 Kaiser

[kingsgate]

I like driving my Kaiser but it's too hot in here. The temperature control knob is stuck solid pulled out. Which seems to mean "hot".

Anyone know how to get at the valve to free it off please?

[joefrazer]

The control cable runs across the inside firewall and connects to the heater control valve just above the passenger footwell. Just remove the cable end from the control valve and then slide the valve shut (it will either slide up or down - I don't recall which way opens or closes) to stop the flow of hot coolant.

A word of warning, if the valve has been in one position for a long time, chances are it will leak. If you see coolant dripping into the passenger compartment, it's due to a leaky valve. If that happens, you'll want to reroute your heater hose to go from the water pump straight back to the fitting at the back of the cylinder head. This bypasses the heater.

[kingsgate]

Thanks for the reply.

In the end, a few taps with a hammer (using a piece of wood to avoid damaging the control knob) got the heat control knob to go back in, turning off the heat.

[kingsgate]

Thanks for the reply.

In the end, a few taps with a hammer (using a piece of wood to avoid damaging the control knob) got the heat control knob to go back in, turning off the heat.

This is known "in the trade" as "percussive maintenance".

[kingsgate]

The control cable runs across the inside firewall and connects to the heater control valve just above the passenger footwell. Just remove the cable end from the control valve and then slide the valve shut (it will either slide up or down - I don't recall which way opens or closes) to stop the flow of hot coolant.

A word of warning, if the valve has been in one position for a long time, chances are it will leak. If you see coolant dripping into the passenger compartment, it's due to a leaky valve. If that happens, you'll want to reroute your heater hose to go from the water pump straight back to the fitting at the back of the cylinder head. This bypasses the heater.

Guess what? I just parked it today and heard a watery hissing sound in the passenger footwell, and sure enough there is a slow leak!

How do I get to the water valve to replace it, does anyone know? Can you even buy new ones anyplace?

Sure, for what is left of the summer I can just bypass the heater but later in the year I will need it to work properly!

[joefrazer]

The heater control valve was made by Ranco and I think there is a repair kit available for it. I have no experience with it, perhaps someone else on the forum can help.

The the hose connections sticking out of the firewall are part of the control valve. Remove the hoses from the valve, then remove the two screws at the firewall and then under the dash at the passenger footwell remove the control cable and I believe there's a cover as well, and then you should be able to remove the valve. It might take some maneuvering to get the hose connections thru the hole in the firewall, but it will come out.

While the valve is out, you can use a small section of pipe to connect the hoses together - but if you do know that the heater will be passing hot water thru while the car is running. It'll be a bit toasty in the car!

[superk226]

The NAPA part number for the heater valve repair for your 53 Kaiser is 660-1000.  Replacing this part requires prying the valve apart which takes a little patience and care but it can be done with good results.

[kaiserfrazerlibrary]

To play it safe you might want to have a spare from a parts car in case you damage the one you're working on.

[kingsgate]

Well, I took out the glovebox and it's mounting, and removed a cover under the dash, and I can now see the heater valve. It is leaking, so at present I can't drive the car too far without needing to:

1) Mop out the passenger footwell
2) Pour several bottles of water into the radiator



So, until I can get a new or repair the existing heater valve, I think that I will connect a hose straight across between the two places on the engine where the water hoses connect to the heater unit.



That way, I won't have a leak (once I drain the heater radiator!) and I won't have a hot interior, although I won't have a heater. But its summer so that don't matter for now.

Then I just have to find a new valve - any ideas? Was the same part used on other cars, does anyone know?

[kingsgate]

I realise from reading about this that the valve is actually thermostatic.

I don't even care about this feature - for the amount of winter driving I am likely to do, I would settle for a more straightforward "on or off" manual valve.

So, in summer I leave the heat knob pushed in, closing off the heater. And when it's cold, I just pull it out for "heater on". Then, if its too hot, I push it back in for a while, or open the window.

Would any easily available on/off valve fit, does anybody know?

[kingsgate]

Well, I have now taken the heater control valve off the car completely. See picture of it:



I don't care about total "originality" here - I just want a simple, manual "hot / cold" push-pull control, don't care if its thermostatic or not.

Will anything substitute that is easily bought?

Thanks in advance for any help here.....

I bypassed the heater matrix completely for now, so I can use the car without getting the carpet wet and having to top up with water all the time!

[boatingbill]

I believe NAPA has what your looking for. I had a replacement valve on my '51 under the hood
that was mounted in-line in the input hose going into the heater. Make sure you have the correct
hose size and you can get a manual operated valve or one that connects to a cable for dash
control. Make sure the cable reaches the valve or you will need a longer cable. Mine was manual
only. I could open it for Winter, close it for Summer, or open half way for Spring and Fall.

[joefrazer]

I think you're looking for a valve something like this. A simple in-line unit with a shut off to stop the flow of water.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heater-shut-off-control-valve-vintage-flathead-hot-rat-street-rod-USA-made-NOS-/121735024726?hash=item1c57f91056&vxp=mtr

[boatingbill]

The manual valve you need is $10.83 at NAPA for under the hood in line style.

[kingsgate]

thanks!