Oil seal L226

[Swiss]

Hi, I own a K51 Deluxe and a K52 Manhattan, both export cars from US. The K51 is running since 1987 very well where the K52 is still in restoration. 10 years ago I installed hardened outlet valves and seats on the K51 to use leadfree fuel and it works just fine. Now there is a very disturbing motor oil leak occuring at the rear seal (obviously a very known problem). I got the engine out, separated the Hydramatic shifting and took the oilpan off, then the Crankshaft rear filler block. Now, to replace the lower half oil seal is easy, but how to replace the upper half? The guard holding the seal is installed tight beneath the crankshaft. Do I need to take the whole crankshaft off (I prefer not to), or is there a way to push/pull out the old seal and push in the new seal? I doubt that this would work. Who of you people has experience in doing this? Thanks for any remarks on this issue.

[joefrazer]

The original upper rear main seal was rope and is lightly pressed into a channel in the upper half of the seal holder. The best way is to remove the crankshaft and replace the seal and block with the newer style neoprene. You should not have to completely remove the crnk from the engine, just lift it enough to get the seal block out. Of course, you will have to remove the main caps to do it.
Another way is to use a soft wire to push the old seal out. Then, using a tool called a "sneaky pete", you can insert a new rope seal. This works well on Chevrolet's and other GM and Ford cars, but isn't as easy on a Kaiser engine. It is important that you not scratch the seal surface on the crank or else it will leak.
Good luck!

[Swiss]

Thanks Joe, I guess you're right. Better do it properly otherwise I have the risk that it starts leaking again.

[Logan]

I once replaced the rope seal on a 53 Manhattan with a sneaky Pete laying under the car in my dad's driveway, but didn't drive it long enough after that before I got rid of the car to tell you how reliable it would be.

[dusty]

Hello swiss,  the only way to replace the rear main seal is to drop the crank to install a neoprene seal, even then its a labor intensive job, I hope you have a sourse for the seal as our special order womwn in Corning Ca. found them to be SCARCE,   NAPA wants 44.00 for one  felpro and victor stopped making them.  you will find them at some of our dealers and are Nos at NAPA under nos # listed in the kaiser parts interchange list Ed. Ewing in Ca. bought everything in Ca. to rebuild our Kaiser engines

[stroker70]

So it looks like it could be a challenge to fix the leak but I gotta do it. Using a neoprene seal would be the prefered way for me, what is seal part number? Napa's online cataloge only shows the rope seal type.

Chris

[hollenway]

Kaiser Willys Supply lists the neoprene seal on their web site.... http://www.kaiserwillys.com/

Look under the Jeep trucks with the 226 engine.


Home / Engine / Gasket Sets & Oil Seals
Gasket Sets & Oil Seals
  Neoprene Rear Main Oil Seal Set
Fits 54-64 Truck, Station Wagon with 6-226 engine   New Replacement Rear Main Oil Seal Set in Neoprene

Comes in 2 half seals to seal up your leaky rear main.

Application
6-226 engine

Fits:
54-64 Truck
54-64 Station Wagon
 
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[stroker70]

I am wondering if that neoprene seal will work on the 53 Kaiser 226 since it is not listed inthe application guide.

[Swiss]

I just finished the replacement of the rear main seal on my K51's 6-226 engine. I followed Joe Frazers tip to lift off a bit the crankshaft, however was quite some work to do so. As I purchased some 3 original engine gasket sets from Fred Walker many years ago, I used the old "technology", i.e. the waxed rope kind seal. The old staff did last more than 25 years (I bought the car in 1985), so why not again 25 years? Next weekend I will install engine and Hydramatic attached to it. Thanks for your tips!  Kaiserly, Adrian Birrer, Switzerland (KFOCI # 6103)

[jmxkf1]

I'm planning on changing the rear seal in my '53 Kaiser with auto trans.   I don't have to remove the trans do I?  I will have on a lift and will drop the oil pan so I should be able to access the seal, I hope.   thanks,  Jim

[Swiss]

You could try to leave the engine installed and take off the oilpan only. However this is not recommended: 

The original upper rear main seal was rope and is lightly pressed into a channel in the upper half of the seal holder. The best way is to remove the crankshaft and replace the seal and block with the newer style neoprene. You should not have to completely remove the crnk from the engine, just lift it enough to get the seal block out. Of course, you will have to remove the main caps to do it.
Another way is to use a soft wire to push the old seal out. Then, using a tool called a "sneaky pete", you can insert a new rope seal. This works well on Chevrolet's and other GM and Ford cars, but isn't as easy on a Kaiser engine. It is important that you not scratch the seal surface on the crank or else it will leak.
Good luck!

I did not try the "sneaky pete" as indicated but did remove the engine completely from the car. Seems to work so far!
Good luck!