New Willys Aero Wiring Harness

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In the last couple of days I have been researching where I could find a replacement wiring harness for my 52 Wing.  I was able to find some good information thanks to the search button on this forum.  I am posting here in case anyone else is trying to search for one like I was. 
The name Robert McBride cam up in a couple of searches so I gave him a call (772) 466-3510.  He told me that he doesn't make a harness for the Aero but, a place called Rhode Island Wiring does and that he actually buys some of his wire from them.  Robert said that he could make a harness if he had one to use for a pattern if anyone is interested.
Rhode Island Wiring Service Inc.
567 Liberty Lane, PO Box 434
 West Kingston, RI 02892
 Phone: (401) 789-1955
  http://www.riwire.com/ 
They don't list list wiring for the 1952 but they do for the 1953.  I assume that there aren't alot of differences if any.  Please correct me if I am wrong.

1953 WILLYS Aero Ace Model 685A
1. Headlight Bucket Wires [pair] 77.00
2. Dash, Engine and Headlight Harness 361.00
3. Generator Harness 64.00
4. Horn Button Ground Wire 7.00
5. Starter and Ignition Harness 120.00   
6. Coil to Distributor Wire [low tension] 5.00
7. Turn Signal Switch Harness 69.00
8. Front Courtesy Light and Door Switch Harness 129.00
9. Overdrive Harness 135.00
10. Body and Taillights Harness 229.00
 
1954 WILLYS Aero Lark Model 685B
1. Park and Turn Signal Bucket Wires [pair] 33.00
2. Dash, Engine, and Headlight Harness 361.00 . 
3. Starter and Ignition Harness 120.00
4. Front Courtesy Light and Door Switch Harness 129.00
5. Turn Signal Switch Harness 66.00
6. Body and Taillights Harness 219.00
7. License Light Bucket Wire 7.00 

1955 WILLYS Bermuda Model 6-226
1. Dash, Engine and Headlight Harness 600.00 .-_-. 
2. Door Switch Harness 150.00 .-_-. 

[RT]

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I bought a complete set of wiring for my '53 Aero Eagle from Rhode Island Wiring.  It took a few weeks for them to make the set and send it but that isn't too much to expect for a complete custom made set of replica wiring.  It is identical to the original with all the correct wire colors and old fashioned covering and all the correct wire ends to make your car authentic.  Each set comes in a plastic bag with a sheet that lists where the wires go so you really don't even need a wiring diagram.  Each wire end is tagged for easy tracing of where they connect.
I have yet to get to my restoration but I'm at least ready with the wiring.
I also have a set of old style vintage spark plug wires from Vintage Wire, a division of Ididit.  Awesome stuff.
I highly recommend both companies.  If you want to make your build like new, that is the way to go.
If you are going to convert to a 12 volt system, you might want to re-think that way and just re-wire to suit the 12 volt system.
I don't think there will be any difference for '52, '53, or even the '54 but there may be some difference for the '55.
They will also make a new wire set for you of any car if you provide them with the old set along with some explanation of the connections.  That way they will use yours for a pattern and then make that car wiring available for the next guy.  They have wiring harnesses for almost any old car.
Good people to do business with.

RT

[MarkH]

 I bought a harness from Rhode Island too, very nice work and you can buy the harness divided into sections as your car was optioned.
The only differences I've noticed on cars I dismantled is the factory '52 harness to the right rear tail light crosses from the drivers side under the package tray, rather than cross at the rear panel of the trunk, not sure from memory but the fuel sender may have done something similar, exiting under the car near the front of the trunk behind the back seat, definitely later exiting the trunk right at the brace for the trunk lock. Metal tabs bend to hold the harness in place and the body will only have tabs where the original harness was, something I discovered after the fact.

Only other difference I noticed is that the late model headlights used a junction block rather than the bakelite connectors.

Also, my dome light wire was extra long, as if RI thought it was wired to the center of the roof, instead of the windshield.

Bottom line is the circuits operate the same things so other than routing, so far, they seem the same to me. I haven't tackled the dash & engine compartment or OD sections yet but I don't anticipate any unresolvable issues.

[jagarra]

I bought the harness for the generator voltage regulator from them.  The only thing i had to do was shift a wire in the harness to get more slack for one of the hook ups. 

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All good info.  Thanks Guys!

[MarkH]

I've been working on the RI Wiring harnesses that route into-out of the dash and found a reversed connection on the generator indicator dash light.
The oil pressure warning light (black wires) has the wire from the main harness wired to the body of the light socket, with the wire from the base/center of the bulb wired to the instrument cluster voltage regulator.

The generator light (yellow wires) was wired the same way, opposite my disassembly photos, old harness, and diagram in the shop manual.

I called RI Wiring, they checked and confirmed the Gen light wires needed to be switched. They offered to send a new socket and internal pieces but I passed since I don't have a problem with crimp connectors on something so minor that doesn't show anyway.

This won't be an issue on future harnesses but will need to be checked/corrected if you've already bought one.

[shawn_and_his_kaiser]

I'm seriously thinking about getting all new wiring harness for my 1951 Kaiser Special... But they don't make one.

[joefrazer]

A member of the KFOCI makes wiring harnesses for any Kaiser - including yours. If you're a member of the club, check your bulletin as he advertises from time to time. His harnesses are correct and fit, I've used his services several times.

[RT]

I've been working on the RI Wiring harnesses that route into-out of the dash and found a reversed connection on the generator indicator dash light.
The oil pressure warning light (black wires) has the wire from the main harness wired to the body of the light socket, with the wire from the base/center of the bulb wired to the instrument cluster voltage regulator.

The generator light (yellow wires) was wired the same way, opposite my disassembly photos, old harness, and diagram in the shop manual.

I called RI Wiring, they checked and confirmed the Gen light wires needed to be switched. They offered to send a new socket and internal pieces but I passed since I don't have a problem with crimp connectors on something so minor that doesn't show anyway.

This won't be an issue on future harnesses but will need to be checked/corrected if you've already bought one.

Thanks, MarkH...
I have one of their harnesses waiting for me to get to that project.  I will print this out and put it in the package.
NICE FIND!
I also do not have a problem correcting a minor issue like that myself.
Those guys a RI Wiring seem pretty good to me.
If you find anything else, please post.

RT

[SC/397]

A member of the KFOCI makes wiring harnesses for any Kaiser - including yours. If you're a member of the club, check your bulletin as he advertises from time to time. His harnesses are correct and fit, I've used his services several times.

Is the fellow that you are mentioning? - The name Robert McBride cam up in a couple of searches so I gave him a call (772) 466-3510.  He told me that he doesn't make a harness for the Aero but, a place called Rhode Island Wiring does and that he actually buys some of his wire from them.  Robert said that he could make a harness if he had one to use for a pattern if anyone is interested.

[cincyjeeprs]

So,
My wiring harness in on the way from Rhode Island Wiring for my '54 Lark.
Now, I have to figure out how to get to the goodies behind the dash.
Anyone have any general hints on how to attack this? Or, should I just plan on standing on my head?

[MarkH]

Don't know if you pulled your windshield to install a new headliner after routing the new harness to the rear of the car, but this worked for me. Pillow for the dash on the passenger side & column. There's just enough slack in the harnesses and cables to make it through the firewall & finish pulling through into place when the dash bolts in, leaving just column turn signal connections and some wires to a hidden stereo amp to keep my car "radio delete"

My car is a "leftover '53"  early '54 Lark and with it's engine/trans has more in common with the'53 Ace than a true '54 Lark so I installed the '53 Ace harness without door light switch harnesses.

Keeping that in mind, take note in the last photo how I had to reverse the Gen indicator light wires due to an error in RI Wiring's diagram & harness. They confirmed the error, said they would make corrections for future harnesses and offered new wires but I was comfortable with a couple crimp connectors there. Be sure to check that though. Otherwise, I'm extremely pleased with the quality & accuracy of their harnesses.