High and low beam headlight issue

[GA Kaiser]

On my '54 Manhattan, it seems when the headlights are on, I have one high beam and one low beam "on".  Pressing the dimmer switch seems to reverse the high and low on each headlight.  How can I fix that one?  I recently cleaned up the connections on the junction block at the front of the car, one wire at a time so I put them back exactly the same place, and taped up a few bare spots.  The wires are original and I cannot tell the colors on them, they all look faded brown to me.  I do have the wiring diagram from the repair manual.

[joefrazer]

Your problem is with the junction block up front. Somewhere, you crossed two wires. I did one better on my 54...when the high beam indicator on the dash was lit, the low beam lamps were on and vise versa. It took some sorting, but all is well now.

[Fid]

The high-beams will have a heavier, thicker gauge wire.  Look to see if you have one terminal with a heavy gauge and light gauge attached (if that's your problem, you probably have two like that) and swap them.  Make sure heavy gauge one on the terminal block attaches to heavy gauge one that goes to the lights and visa-versa.  Good luck.

[HJ-ETEX]

GA: I would suggest you replace the cloth insulated wires from the junction in front of the radiator to the headlights & parking/turn lights with modern vinyl insulated wire. It isn't as hard as you might think. In fact if you are careful you can remove the old wiring without destroying it and use it for a pattern. You can buy a new 3 prong socket for the headlights at NAPA or other car parts stores if you know what to ask for. Similarly, you can replace the insert or the whole socket for the parking/turn lights. In addition (and very importantly) you can add specific ground wires from the light sockets to a good ground. I have worked on 3 - 54 Kaisers that had strange light problems because the sockets were not properly grounding. Typically, one side would be brighter than the other or you turn on a turn signal but instead the other side lights up and does not blink.

[HJ-ETEX]

GA: Now that I reread your post, I can not help but think you have a problem with bad grounds. Suggestion 1: Can you tell which filament in the headlight elements are lighting up? There are 2 and the high beam sticks up further from the base of the element and may be slightly wider. If the same filament lights up on both but one is dimmer, you have either a high resistance wire or a bad ground. If different filaments light up, then you have one of the terminals at the junction block on the wrong stud. Suggestion 2: If both high beam filament lights up but one is dimmer, reach up in the fender and unplug the 3 prong socket for the dimmer element. If the brighter element now does not light up at all, then you have a bad ground - at the brighter element! It may sound wacky to you, but the dimmer element was acting as a partial ground for brighter one.

[Terry T]

I would not think that a reasonable person would want to bastardize their classic car wiring by using modern day vinyl-coated wires.  Spend the money and purchase currently made cloth-covered wire in the proper color and gauge as per the wiring diagram.  The very few extra pennies spent would result in a look that is in line with the vintage aspect of your car.

[84RabbitGTI]

I second the advice by Terry T on the correct wiring.  It doesn't cost a lot, and it FITS, with all the proper terminals, colors and gauges.  It was actually pretty easy (relatively) to install my new wiring harness offered by Robert McBride from Florida.  He was helpful on the few times I needed some tips via a quick phone call too.  In my experience at least, it was well worth the effort and money to get a correct pre-assembled harness.
I also agree with HJ-ETEX on the bad grounds.  I had a '73 VW Beetle with a 6 volt factory system in Germany with a similar problem in the tail light assembly.  Turned out it was bad grounds.  6-V systems seem particularly susceptible to that ailment.

[Terry T]

Just to clarify.  It may not be necessary to rewire the complete car.  While a new harness from the likes of McBride are great products, it may necessary to replace only a worn or frayed wire.  All wires of correct color and gauge are available by the foot from various suppliers.

[FrazerWill]

Can you post the info on where to get the wires? My 49 needs some of them replaced.

Thanks

[pnw_oldmags]

I might suggest you ask Robert McBride of Florida If he would make only the part of the wiring harness you seek.  I believe he has original harnesses for most KF cars and he should be able to say just make up the head light wires for your model.  Just a thought.

[HJ-ETEX]

I disagree with Terry T because I believe he is thinking about a Darrin. We are talking about a non-show car here, aren't we? The owner was talking about TAPING up the gaps in the existing cloth insulation! Replacing the wiring from the junction block in front of the radiator to one of the headlights & parking/turn signals isn't all that involved either - OR - expensive.  If I did it I would solder all the connections instead of just crimping but crimping would work.

[Terry T]

I have used Road Island Wire with great success.
Goto http://www.riwire.com

[GA Kaiser]

Hey y'all.  Wow!  Sorry I have not been here in this discussion for a few weeks.  My son graduated college mid May, moved from GA to near York, PA and got married in MD on May 29th, so we have been quite busy.  We even had a '54 Kaiser for the new couple to ride in courtesy of a wonderful KFOCI member from Baltimore.  I plan to write a story for the Quarterly about it.

No, my car is not a show car, just a 20 footer, but everyone loves it at shows.  See December 2009 KF calendar.  I want to keep it as close to original as possible and have been thinking of ordering the new wiring from McBride, I have seen his ad in the newsletter.  I have been an unemployed architect for 10 months now, and am very hesitant to spend ANY money right now.  Funny, I have time to work on things, but no money to spend! 

I only took off one wire at a time from the junction block and put them back just as they were, but maybe they were wrong to begin with.  I will try the various suggestions and see if I can figure it out.  I don't drive much in the dark anyway if I can help it, but I want them to work if possible just in case.  However, it's about 95 outside right now and very humid, with the heat index over 100, not very conducive to working in the garage. 

I've also had an issue with the underdash interior lights coming on when I step on the brake, and sometimes they stay on and can kill the battery.  I must jiggle the wiring and it goes off, so I figure I have a problem there that really needs to be fixed.  I really need to replace all of the wiring, someday, but electrical tape is the solution for now.

Thanks for all the suggestions.  Maybe I will see some of you at the Dixie Region Fall meet October 1, 2, and 3 in Woodstock, GA.  Watch the bulletin for more details in the next month or so. 

[HJ-ETEX]

That's a good one - step on the brakes and the underdash lights come on.
I urge you to have a through understanding of how your car works. KF cars are relatively simple.

[Kenn Evans II]

If the wires are too bad contact Robert McBride, he has done some great work and it is correct and I recommend him for his work and the price is very reasonable his number is  772-466-3510  and if you want to add some accessories let him know and he can work them in.